The Old Butt Knob Trail and Shining Creek Trail loop is a classic introduction to the Shining Rock Wilderness Area of North Carolina. Beginning at the Big East Fork Trailhead on U.S. 276, both trails climb from 3,384 feet to meet the Art Loeb Trail above 5,800 feet at Shining Rock Gap. Despite the relatively short length of this loop (9.4 miles including Shining Rock), this is a difficult day hike for hikers of all abilities. The Old Butt Knob Trail climbs over 1,400 feet in the first mile, and the Shining Creek Trail is incredibly rocky and steep over its last mile. Despite the hardship, this is an excellent backpacking loop with outstanding campsites and even better views. The Old Butt Knob Trail features multiple views from southern-facing rock outcrops, and the views from Shining Rock and Grassy Cove Top are some of the highlights of the wilderness. Even though this is a wilderness area, this is in close proximity to Asheville and is popular with weekend backpackers. Try to start early if you want to camp at Shining Rock Gap, which is one of the best campsites in the region and is also the crossroads for 4 trails within the wilderness. Beech Spring Gap and Flower Gap are your best alternative campsites with easy access to water and views.
Wilderness Regulations – Group size is limited to 10 persons within the Shining Rock Wilderness Area. Campfires are prohibited, a wilderness-specific regulation that is not prohibited in other wilderness areas of North Carolina. Additionally, bear canisters are now required for all backcountry campers. There is significant bear activity in the region. No overnight permits are required to camp year-round. Trails are not blazed within the wilderness, and not every official trail intersection is signed.
Mile 0.0 – Ample parking is available at the Big East Fork Trailhead on U.S. 276 beside the bridge over the East Fork of the Pigeon River. This is actually the beginning of the Shining Creek Trail. The Big East Fork Trail [357] begins on the other side of the bridge and does not have a separate parking area. The Shining Creek Trail [363] initially follows a forest road above the river. Below the trail are numerous large campsites.
Mile 0.8 – T-junction with the Old Butt Knob Trail [332] on the right. The Shining Creek Trail continues straight, this will be your return route. Turn right on the Old Butt Knob Trail which immediately climbs Chestnut Ridge. This is the steepest, longest climb of the day but you will get it out of the way early. From the trail junction, the trail climbs 1,400 feet in 1 mile before leveling out above the 5,000-foot elevation contour.
Mile 2.6 – Small campsite on the trail immediately before the summit.
Mile 2.7 – Pass over the forested summit of Old Butt Knob (5,525 feet).
Mile 2.9 – The trail dips down into Spanish Oak Gap. This wide, flat gap has numerous campsites amongst the trees and grasses on the north side of the trail.
Mile 3.4 – Bypass the true summit of Dog Loser Knob, which is north of the trail. There are a couple of nice campsites hidden amongst the thick rhododendrons. The trail descends through narrow rhododendron tunnels with occasional views west of Shining Rock.
Mile 3.6 – Pass through Beech Spring Gap. A side trail on the left leads to nice campsites and a spring further down the slope.
Mile 4.2 – Turn right at a T-junction onto an unmarked summit trail to Shining Rock. The Old Butt Knob Trail continues left towards Shining Rock Gap. Immediately, the summit trail splits. Stay right following the main trail across the heath bald. The expansive summit of Shining Rock features multiple rock outcrops on all sides with unique views of the region. There are no official trails, but there are a lot of easy-to-follow manways. You can pick and choose how much you want to explore, this hike touches all of the significant outcrops on the summit.
Mile 4.6 – Before you reach the Old Butt Knob Trail, turn right on a manway if you want to check out views from the western rock outcrops. Turning north you’ll arrive at white quartzite with views west. From this perch you have fantastic views of Richland Balsam rising above the West Fork Pigeon River watershed. Further west are the Plott Balsam Mountains, and to the northwest are the Great Smoky Mountains.
Mile 4.7 – Instead of returning to the main summit manway, continue south along the base of an immense wall of white quartzite. At the south end of the wall, scramble to the top and turn right to visit the southwest outcrops.
Mile 6.2 – Continue straight through Y-junction following a manway to the summit of Grassy Cove Top. The Art Loeb Trail turns left skirting the summit.
Mile 6.3 – After crossing the summit, a small camp circle on the trail, continue left to see views from the open southern hillside. From Grassy Cove Top (6,040 feet) you have views from east to southwest. Mount Pisgah is located northeast, with the Black Mountains rising in the distant background. Down to the southeast you can see the elevated plateau of Graveyard Fields in the foreground of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Immediately south across Ivestor Gap are Tennent Mountain and Black Balsam Knob. On the right of Black Balsam Knob is double-humped Sam Knob, with Mount Hardy in the background. (The GPS track heads northeast from the summit, an ill-advised attempt at a bushwhacking shortcut by the author to reach the Art Loeb Trail. We recommend turning around and following the summit trail back to the ALT.)
Mile 8.6 – Slide waterfall on North Prong Shining Creek below the trail. You’ll pass by numerous small waterfalls on the creek well below the trail, but none of these are necessarily worth scrambling down the steep banks to see.